Apr 19
As you paddle out to the wave, be aware of what’s nearby and what goes on around you. Piers, rocky outcroppings and more can alter the way the wave acts. As the wave moves around them it tends to produce a swirl that can sweep you up and turn you around. Paddle out away from all obstructions, past any near shore barriers, then turn around.
Once you’re out far enough, you’ll want even more to keep an eye on the water’s movements. But it just got harder, because the waves are now behind you. You’ll need to keep glancing over your shoulder to judge the wave speed, direction and size. At the same time, you need to be aware of how close you are moving toward the shore and any other nearby surfers.
The passing waves will gently pick you and your surfboard up and set you down if you are still out away from the break. But once you’ve drifted or paddled in far enough to catch a wave, the swell will lift you higher. As the wave starts to turn over, it will tend to carry you into the tube.
Apr 19
The Good, the Bad, and the Beautiful of surf culture. The most important part of surf culture is the beautiful. And there is lots of it.
The sky on a clear blue day isn’t something created by surf culture. But the choice to take advantage of it is. Seeking the sun and the colored sky plays into the feelings that draw surfers to the waves. Even when the skies are gray, the view can be dramatic in a quiet way. That’s part of surf culture, that impressive natural display.
The warm yellow sand also is a given, but it’s another element that draws surfers to become part of the culture, not just weekend wave riders. Nothing wrong with that, of course. The wide stretch of gently curving sand that gives underfoot is part of the natural gift that creates the mellow state that is part of surf culture.
But there’s a state that isn’t mellow, that is all passion. That comes from riding the perfect wave in a perfect way. And there’s a kind of beauty to that, too. It’s the beauty of excellence, the quiet pride of a skill well earned and the whooping joy of the rush when you use it.
Whether big endorsements that flow from winning competitions is your goal, or you just want to experience the ride for its own sake, that beauty is there for anyone who seeks it.